In the kitchen
Turkish food in Boston, and the gap between Turkish and Turkish-ish
Search Turkish food in Boston and you will mostly be handed kebab. Kebab is Turkish. It is also about as complete a picture of Turkey as a burger is of America.
Kebab is the half of Turkey that travels well: skewers hold at service temperature and a spit portions itself, which is what a restaurant kitchen most needs from a dish. The street-food half mostly stays home, and kumpir is the tell. Written from a kitchen whose oven came from Turkey, about what that does and does not make us.